Final rudder work

I least it is close.  Just have to make new longer tie rods and finish the tiller and make the extension and install the lock down fasteners and ...

The list never seems to end.

Here's the final linkage arrangement.  I thought about moving the pivot forward and adding a lever off the back of the tiller arrangement so the rudder arms could be lead rearward, but this seemed simpler in the end.  And not really anymore in the way.  You might note that the rudder arms are a bit angled.  The idea of using an ackerman alignment, or insuring that the inner rudder makes a smaller arc through the water than the outer rudder, comes from cars.   A reasonable starting point for a boat system would be to aim the rudder arms to the pivot point of the boat, or about towards the keel.  I somehow managed to cut the tie rods about 2 inches to short to accomplish that so new ones are in the works. I also am going to install inserts into the cassette mounting sleeve so I can bolt the rudders down to the sleeves so they will not float up. up and away.

Just a shot of the forward deck panel in place and properly trimmed to fit.  The rear one has also been sized now so both can be finished and painted.  This, with the forward cover in place and the rear one removed is how I envision the boat normally being sailed. I will,however, make sure the rear one can be fitted and sealed when sailing just in case.  Pictures of a how that all fits together next time.

Another shot of the tiller and rudders from forward on the boat.

We are still on track for a March (though perhaps a late March) launch. 

Rounding the last corner

Well, sort of.  AT least it does look like a March launch will really happen.  Lot's going on, from priming the deck, finishing the rudder linkage and designing and building the deck cross brace.

Pictures below:

The Bow is a bit different than most:

The linkage pretty  much in place

Twins!

Primed curves - note my 1.1% advantage!

We laminated the foam to the shape we wanted  the tiller and then sanded it and laid it up with carbon and carbon and Kelvar sleeves.

the top plate of the deck brace - plywood laid up with carbon.

Vacuum bagged to get the carbon to conform to the curves.  Worked for the most part.

The tiller and the deck brace - the two parts of the deck brace will be epoxied together yet.  The tube part is unidirectional carbon and the carbon/ kelvar sleeves over foam.

Baby gets a new suit of cloths!

Last day of 2011:

First Day of 2012:

She still needs a second coat.  That will happen tomorrow, the 2nd.  if the weather cooperates.  We have had extremely warm and mild weather to date, but this week promises to remind us of what Winter is supposed to be.  We may have to wait a week for another weather window to do that second coat.

Saturday I also had to hook up the new air line dryer, which works like a charm.  Instantly went from spraying as much water as paint to perfection. We also rearranged the shop and now have a larger area dedicated to the boat. The front "office" has been converted into the wood shop and the center area opened up for the boat.  We now have about 500 SF for the boat area.

But, back to painting.  We had decided to use Rustoleum's Marine Coatings.  It is a one part marine paint that is formulated for roller/ brush on as well as spray. You may have noticed that we used grey primer all along and then the first picture it is white.  That is because Rustoleum's Marine Primer for fiberglass and wood is white and I wanted to insure compatibility between the old primers and putties and the paint. Why chose this paint?  The specs seemed about as good as any one part marine paint and I did not want to use a two part paint. Not in the dirty shop and also, we have striven to use the more readily available and affordable material throughout and so this fit right in. 3 quarts of Topside Black and 2 quarts of primer with thinners, tack cloths and strainers all were a bit under $ 90.00.  All from the local Lowes or Home Depot. 

We elected to spray ours and I used a HVLP gun.  The instructions said conventional gun and while that should mean HVLP today, I have my doubts.  The sheet says to thin between 10 and 15% and the primer went one just fine at 15%.  Lots of orange peel when first sprayed and the primer settled right down within the hour or so.  The topcoat was a bit different and would not spray well at 15%.  I ended up at about 30% and it seemed to spray well but stayed a bit thick.  The hull had the same orange peel as the primer and, like I hoped, it settled down in about 2 or 3 hours.  Time will tell how well this paint holds up, but as it is a race boat, I suspect that the little paint scraps and chips will be many anyway.

This is also the first time we have seen the hull shiney.  If I had been wanting perfection, I would have painted it before this and sanded it all off .  As it is, I am very happy with the few imperfections that we have. Most if not all would not even be seen in white and few even in other dark colors.  Black is, well, black, and shows the world every little thing. 

Frankenstein's bulb and keel got joined together in the last couple of weeks. A touch more fairing and it can be painted and will be ready to install.  This week we also have to finish up the new trailer bunks and get them installed so we can do the flip and get the deck painted. 

We are currently hoping for a March launch. Let's see, we also need to find one of those spinning electric wheels and electric lightening balls to bring Frankenstein to life then as well.

Happy New Year to all.